Driving alongside Interstate 690, you might miss the little diner that’s nestled between a motel and a gas station as your car curves up the highway entrance right across from it. But Syracuse’s loyal locals and truckers from far and wide have put Mama Nancy’s on the map.

Inside, the atmosphere was casual but welcoming, decorated and bright for the holiday season. But I was excited to encounter a classic diner: simple, relaxed, open 24/7 with a homemade touch to everything the staff serves.

Though Nancy offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between, my roommates and I decided that after a long night of studying for finals, an early morning breakfast would be the only way to motivate us to continue studying. My one roommate won the award for best order: Her ham, egg and cheese omelet ($7.25) was oozing with rich creamy cheese. The eggs were fluffy and mixed with melted cheese, which gave them a substantial texture that served to boost the flavors.

The crisp side of bacon ($2.50) was a great complement to the soft cheesy omelet. It wasn’t greasy but still juicy and crisp. The potatoes that came with it, however, needed some salt and tasted very starchy.

This was surprisingly not the case with my order of corn beef hash ($8.25). The potatoes in Mama Nancy’s homemade hash were the perfect-sized cubes and well-seasoned. Each piece had bits of crispness but overall was soft and warm. The addition of green peppers and chopped onions made a traditionally simple dish stand out. All this goodness helped to soak up the runny yolk from the over-easy eggs, which came on top of the hash that I scooped up with pre-buttered toast.

The corned beef hash was juicy, not rubbery like it sometimes is served elsewhere. But the chop on the meat was messy and inconsistent. Some pieces would be thinly cut into strips and others were chunky and too large. It may be a small detail, but it changed the flavor and effect of each individual bite and took away from other strong elements in the dish.

It also made it difficult for the meat to blend together with the other ingredients on the plate so that it didn’t quite hold together the way corn beef hash should.

My other roommate’s bacon, egg and cheese sandwich on a bagel ($4.95) was simple, but it had all the makings of a perfect breakfast sandwich: fluffy eggs, gooey cheese, crisp bacon and warm, buttery bread.

We sat and ate in the first booth by the door and surveyed the scene: a wrinkled man with a beard and stains on his shirt complaining to a waitress. The service was what you’d expect from a good diner — sweet but sassy if you get on their very busy nerves.

The diners were a mixed bunch of older locals bundled up from the rain and rowdy truckers. They all sat at the booths, each with an antique-looking box hanging on the wall. Our waitress informed us that putting a quarter in the change slot would get you five minutes of TV on the box’s tiny screen as she swiftly cleared our plates with a cheerful smile.

Mama Nancy’s dishes may have had some shortcomings, and the diner can go unseen by cars whizzing by, but the little truck stop is a great place to visit. You get an authentic diner atmosphere and a worthwhile opportunity to go see some unfamiliar faces and get a taste of Syracuse life alongside your hardy meal.

Published on December 5, 2012 at 2:58 am

Contact Danielle: dmodiama@syr.edu | @daniemarieodie